There is one pastry worth building a Lisbon itinerary around, and it costs less than two euros. The delicious pastéis de nata are as ingrained in the fabric of Lisbon as the tiled facades and old-school trams. Finding them won’t be hard but not all are created equal. What you are after is finding the very best.
If you try only one pastry in Lisbon, make it this one. The famous palm-sized pastéis de nata is made with only a handful of ingredients but this simplicity is deceptive. It has a flaky casing filled with an oozy custard made of cream, egg yolks, sugar, flour and sometimes lemon zest. But that does not mean they are nothing special. It is a national staple eaten by Lisboans morning, noon and night. And with good reason.
Seriously though, how many natas can one eat in a day? Turns out, a lot. You will eat more of these in a day than you meant to. They’re addictive, the ideal fuel for taking on the seven hills of the city, and the perfect way to start a day of Lisbon-eatsploring.
Monestary to nation’s favourite
The recipe predates the 18th century, invented by Catholic monks at the Hieronymites Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos), who found themselves with a surplus of egg yolks. Convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching their religious habits. The leftovers found their way into a proliferation of cakes and pastries, amongst which was the nata.
An old Portuguese proverb says: a bride who eats a pastry will never take off her ring. It’s common enough to see newlywed couples, still in wedding dress, popping in at Lisbon’s most traditional bakery to indulge in a sweet Belém Pastry, for exactly this reason.
Criteria for finding the best pastéis de nata
Best eaten slightly warm with a dusting of canela (cinnamon) and a bica (espresso), or meia de leite (half coffee, half milk) on the side. The crust should be buttery, thin and crispy, even once cooled. The filling should be velvety, just short of set, with a little caramelisation on top. Most importantly, the flavour should lean savoury-sweet rather than sugary.
Where to find the natas worth queuing for
Nine spots well worth the detour.
#1 Pastéis de Belém
The original, and still the standard everyone else is measured against. First sold here in 1837, using a recipe that hasn’t changed since.
The story starts earlier, though. In the early 19th century, a sugar cane refinery stood beside the Jerónimos Monastery, with a small shop attached. When the 1820 Liberal Revolution shut down Portugal’s convents and monasteries, one of the displaced monastery workers began selling pastries in that shop to make ends meet. They caught on fast, and the shop took the name Pastéis de Belém.
Queues snake out the door most days, and 20 000 pastries are made and sold here daily, closer to double that on a busy weekend. It draws tourists chasing the “real deal,” but locals still make the trip too, which tells you way more than any queue does.
Join the queue anyway. Tasting one here is a rite of passage. The interior alone is worth the trip, but the real reason is simpler. They’re genuinely among the best on this list, hype aside.
The recipe is made in the Oficina do Segredo (the “secret workshop”), known to just six people, three of them master bakers, all under contract to keep it that way. The baking process is in plain view and you can watch the pastries emerge from the oven all puffed up and golden.
One distinction worth knowing: a Pastéis de Belém isn’t technically the precisely the same thing as a pastel de nata. The recipe exists only here, which is the whole point of the trip.
The shell shatters on the first bite; the filling underneath is creamy, restrained on sugar. Eat one fresh from the oven, even better with a glass of port alongside.
Afterwards, there’s reason to walk it off: the Jerónimos Monastery, the Tower of Belém and MAAT (the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) are all close by, which is also a fair excuse for a second pastry later in the day.
Address: 84-92 Rua de Belém, Lisboa, Portugal, +351 21 363 7423, Visit website
#2 Manteigaria
Manteigaria (means ‘butter shop) opened a few years ago and has taken Lisbon by storm. This place does one thing only: pastéis de nata. That focus shows in the tasty result: buttery, flaky crust, a light, creamy centre, sweetness kept in check.
Their first spot opened on Loreto Street in Chiado with a second inside the Time Out Market. Both ring a big brass bell the moment a fresh batch leaves the oven, and the queue forms within seconds.
Both locations are small and busy, but service moves fast. You won’t wait long, and there’s no pressure to rush your nata (or three) once you’re seated.
If you only have time for one, make it Chiado, the original: roughly 5 000 natas made here daily, with a counter seat that puts you right in front of the process, coffee in hand while you eat.
Open eight in the morning till midnight, drawing locals and tourists in equal measure. Grab a spot at the counter, go heavy on the cinnamon, and judge for yourself.
Address(es): Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa & Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho, Cais do Sodré, Lisboa, +351 21 347 1492, Visit Facebook page
#3 Pastelaria Aloma
Selling natas from the same Campo de Ourique shop since 1943. The neighbourhood itself is worth the trip: boutique shops, and the Mercado de Campo de Ourique nearby.
João Castanheira bought the bakery in 2009 and expanded to two more locations: one near Manteigaria on Largo do Camões, another inside Time Out Mercado da Ribeira.
In their own words they sell ‘o melhor pastéis de nata,” or “the best pastéis de nata”. The claim holds up with three wins at the National Pastel de Nata competition. Slightly crispy on top, creamy on the inside, restrained on sugar. Despite the accolades, it still feels properly local rather than touristy. Worth going beyond the nata too, it is a great spot to taste other traditional pastries on the counter: Tartelete de Amêndoa, Bolo-Rei (king cake), queijadas, Jesuíta, Pão de Deus and palmier are all on the counter.
Address: Francisco Metrass 67, 1350-007 Lisboa, Portugal, +351 21 396 3797, Visit website
#4 Fábrica da Nata
Easy to reach, plenty of seating, and the production line is on full view. Opened in 2016, iFábrica da Nata picked up a following fast. The room is the real draw with azulejo tiles, comfortable seating, quick service and the nata production process on display for everyone to watch.
But do they make the best natas? Not the best on the list, but you will have to try it out and decide for yourself. They have several locations in popular parts of Lisbon, plus one in Porto.
Beyond the nata, there’s an affordable quick-bite lunch menu too, good for a midday stop. A nata to finish is, of course, non-negotiable.
Address(es): Praça dos Restauradores, nº 62-68 1250-110 Lisbon & Rua Augusta, nº 275 A 1100-052 Lisbon & Rua de Santa Catarina, nº 331/335 4000-451 Port, +351 21 132 5435, Visit website
#5 Pastelaria Santo António
Only a couple of years old, and Pastelaria Santo António already won “Melhor Pastel de Nata” in 2019. Near São Jorge Castle, on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, it is situated in more touristy territory, though it doesn’t feel like a trap. The Pasteis de Natas here have a hint of lemon running through it, a genuine point of difference. The flaky crust holds a luscious creamy filling with good caramelisation on top. Worth pairing with a ginjinha, Portugal’s cherry liqueur.
It takes a bit of work to get up there but free elevators run up to the Castelo neighbourhood, if you’d rather skip the climb.
Address: Milagre de Santo António 10, 1100-351 Lisboa, visit website
#6 Fim de Século
Another “Melhor Pastel de Nata” winner, tucked into the leafy residential Benfica neighbourhood, opposite the local market. Opened in 1999 as a small family bakery, it’s since become a place worth the trip on its own merits.
Well away from the tourist trail, this local spot makes a nata with an extra-puffy crust and a fresh, creamy centre. Owners Gabriela and José Carlos have spent years perfecting the recipe and won’t say how. What isn’t a secret though, one is never enough.
Address: Rua João Frederico Ludovice 28, 1500-205 Lisboa, +351 21 764 9294, visit Facebook page
#7 Pastelaria Versailles
Frozen somewhere in the 1920s, this Parisian style tea room and pastelaria has elaborate Art Nouveau grandeur with waiters still in traditional dress and enough stained glass, chequered floor and chandeliers to be worth the visit on décor alone. It also happens to make a very good nata.
It sits on Avenida da República in Saldanha, a business district well off the tourist trail, which is exactly why locals still treat it as their own. Expect to rub shoulders with suited-up politicians rather than other travellers.
Be sure to come hungry. The menu runs well beyond pastries, with proper Portuguese cooking. The cordon bleu with esparregado (creamed spinach) and the meat croquettes have a special reputation.
Rumoured to have the longest pastry counter in Lisbon, you will want to save some space for sweets. The real challenge is deciding what to try with croissants, madeleines, fruit tarts, creamy doughnuts, cakes, cookies and puff pastries like jewels behind the glass.
Don’t skip the nata, though, it is not their specialty, but genuinely excellent with a slightly taller crisp and flaky shell wrapped around a rich egg custard.
Tip:
There’s now a Versailles outpost at the airport (Terminal 1), leaning more toward sandwiches and grab-and-go than the original, but with enough of the same décor to feel familiar, and natas on offer too. A decent way to say goodbye to the beautiful Lisbon.
Address: 15-A Avenida da República, Lisboa, 1050-185, Portugal, +351 21 354 6340, visit Facebook page
#8 Confeitaria Nacional
Founded in 1829 by Balthazar Roiz Castanheiro, Confeitaria Nacional is one of the oldest pastry shops in Lisbon, still run by the same family six generations on. A real local institution, it became official supplier to the Casa Real (the royal household) in 1873, and is as popular today as ever.
Situated on Praça da Figueira, in the centre of the city, drawing tourists and locals in equal measure. Several recipes remain secret, the nata included.
Their nata is denser and sweeter than most on this list, a genuine draw if you have a sweet tooth. The sugary centre plays well against the salty crust, and it’s a good pastry in its own right, though if you prefer things less sweet, you won’t find your first choice here.
The building alone is worth the visit with a grand Pombaline structure with mirrored ceilings, carved woodwork and marble counters throughout. Worth lingering, too, for the cakes and petit fours beyond the nata, including a curious local specialty, candied chestnuts shaped like eggs.
Tip:
There’s also a Confeitaria Nacional counter at the airport (Terminal 2) for a final sweet fix on your way home.
Address: Praça da Figueira, 18B Praça Dom Pedro IV, Lisboa, 1100-241, Portugal, +351 21 342 4470, visit website
#9 Pastelaria Alcôa
Pastelaria Alcôa opened in 2017 on Chiado’s main shopping street, in a space that once sold tobacco. The original tiles and façade are still there, though the smell inside has changed for the better.
Alcôa traces back to 1957, when it first opened in Alcobaça, a town about 120km from Lisbon famed for its convent sweets, a heritage very much on display at the Chiado branch.
The pasteis de nata here share counter space with convent sweets bearing names like ‘nun’s belly’ and ‘the forbidden love,’ transported south from Alcobaça daily. It’s easy to get distracted, but the nata itself is baked fresh on-site throughout the day and worth staying focused for. Shower with cinnamon rather than sugar on top as these are on the sweeter side.
Worth leaving with a box of convent sweets too, ideal for eating on a bench in one of Lisbon’s many squares.
Address: Rua Garrett 37, Lisbon,1200-309, Portugal, +351 21 136 7183, visit website
Learn to make it yourself
There are two Pastel de Nata classes worth booking, if you’d rather leave Lisbon knowing how to make these yourself.
#1 Inside a real working pastelaria
Taught by João, a fifth-generation baker and owner of Pastelaria Batalha, whose kitchen this class actually happens in. It is a real, working bakery that placed third in the 2016 “Melhor Pastel de Nata” award. He grew up in the trade quite literally, spending his first months as a baby parked in a pram next to the ice cream machine in his parents’ restaurant.
The class takes place in the kitchen of Batalha and kicks off with a demonstration of how to make the puff pastry. Then things get hands-on, preparing the custard and making the tarts. It all ends up baked in a professional oven and on your plate to be enjoyed with coffee, tea or Ginja (sour cherry liqueur). Your call!
#2 In a chefs studio with a recipe specially adapted to the home kitchen
Chef Ana Viçoso runs her own Lisbon cooking academy, built around a genuine passion for teaching. Her English is excellent and she has a comprehensive knowledge of local cuisine.
Beyond this class, she also offers market tours and broader Portuguese cooking sessions.
In her Pastel de Nata classes you get to roll up your sleeves and work hands-on. The class starts with the making the puff pastry from scratch, then moves on to the filling, and Ana threads in the history and technique behind the tart as you go. The class works entirely with domestic appliances and equipment making it easy to replicate the recipe at home.
It all ends with a nata-feast, of course, washed down with coffee, tea or juice.
Address: Rua Ilha Terceira 51 A, 1000-172 Lisboa, Portugal, Visit website
So now you have nothing to worry about – when you are back home and the inevitable nata-cravings set in, you’ll be covered. Be sure to book your Pastel de Nata class in advance, however, considering the fame of Portuguese tarts, these classes fill up quickly.
Travelling to Lisbon?
For a place to stay, see our write-ups on Hotel Valverde, an inner-city sanctuary, or Baixa House if you are the kind of traveller that likes to live like a (stylish) local. Both come with neighbourhood food guides attached, so you won’t be eating blind.
Pro Tip: Beyond the nata, other Lisbon food favourites worth trying: Bifanas, Arroz de Pato and Alheira.
Photography: Liezel Norval-Kruger, Pastéis de Belém, Manteigaria, Pastelaria Aloma, Fábrica da Nata, Pastelaria Santo António, Fim de Século, Pastelaria Versailles, Confeitaria Nacional, Pastelaria Alcôa, Pastelaria Batalha, Lisbon cooking academy
